Kond: Old District in the Heart of Yerevan

Although Yerevan is old and was founded in 782 BC, there are not so many authentic historical sites to visit nowadays. However, there is one district that is number one on all travel guidebooks. It’s Kond.

This charming neighborhood, with its narrow streets, unique stone buildings, and graffiti attracts thousands of tourists. This is arguably a more popular spot for tourists than the newly built Northern Avenue. Probably the reason is this district resembles a living museum, where each corner tells the story of Yerevan’s rich heritage.

The district in Yerevan downtown is only a 15-minute walk from the main square. However, this is a journey in a completely different dimension. As the Yerevan municipality has already announced the implementation of a new urban project here, you may not have much time to see this unique historic place.

History of Kond

Kond is one of Yerevan’s oldest quarters occupying the western and southern hillsides of a rocky hill bearing the same name. Historically, its western border was the Hrazdan River.  Its name meaning “long hill” in Armenian, reflects its elevated position relative to the surrounding areas.

Kond is one of Yerevan’s three original quarters, alongside Hin Tagh (The Old City) and Karahank. There is no clear information about the borders and territory of Kond before the first half of the 19th century. Like other eastern cities, Yerevan had no plan

In the 1930s, a new development plan for Yerevan was approved, which began to alter Kond’s natural boundaries. Despite the discovery of early Christian tombs at the Kozern cemetery, which was being cleared for new construction, new buildings started to emerge, changing the historic landscape of Kond.

Architecture

Photos by Yerevan Munisipality

Architects believe that Kond’s appearance, including its street structure and urban design, has remained unchanged since the 18th century. This historic quarter developed organically over time, without formal architectural planning. Kond had an advantageous position and a favorable climate, being the highest point in the old city. Its narrow, winding streets followed the contours of the hill irregularly. The wealthier residents lived in one- and two-story houses at the top of the hill, while others lived at the bottom.

Another notable landmark in Kond is the St. Hovhannes Church. It was originally built in the 15th century, the church suffered significant damage in the 1679 earthquake. It was subsequently rebuilt in 1710 by Melik Aghamalyan to serve as his family’s private chapel.  

According to the Urbanista website, an Armenian media outlet covering urban issues, over the years, many old houses on Kond Hill have been either covered by additional structures or demolished. Nowadays the neighborhood resembles a disordered mix of buildings without any basic amenities. Houses and structures of value are either destroyed or are in poor condition. The Kond district has shrunk in recent years and now covers 16 hectares. 

Strolling in Kond

A number one thing that makes Kond a unique district is that despite being old it is the people living there.  As you walk through the district, you’ll often see children playing games in these narrow streets. The residents of Kond, known for their hospitality, friendliness, and welcoming nature, make every visit memorable. Some can even offer you coffee and tell the stories that happened here in the past.

Besides, there are interesting old doors painted in different colors. So, this district definitely has its beauty and character. Modern graffiti on many walls adds its charm. Kond is a photographer’s paradise, offering a unique chance to capture stunning images. It provides endless inspiration for professional photographers.  Sometimes it seems you are not in Yerevan but somewhere in Rio de Janeiro.